It arises simply from riding the bicycle: ‘over the rocky roadsteads of this parish’, as Flann O’Brien put it.
I had to soak the stock in acetone for a few days to first get the glue dissolved so it could be separated. Besides looking god awful ugly he said it only lasted a few range trips. The previous owner used gorilla glue to repair the stock and clamped it back together. Here is a stock that I worked on 3 years ago. Unless you can open the crack to 1/8 to get the resin down in there, additional methods should always be taken to do the work right. I have opened up many stocks only to find the previous owners used the knife/epoxy method and there is only a thin line of epoxy around the edges of the crack never more than a 1/8" deep. It may hold for a few years or even several if you are lucky. It is imperative that you get the resin as far into the crack as possible, simply using a knife to work it in the crack is not sufficient. I have just found what works and what doesn't work the best. Like I always say there is no "right" or "wrong" way of doing something, the methods I have used were handed down to me from over 2 generations of gunsmithing. Why don't you post up a picture of the damage? Most of the repair work I do is blind work and can only occasionally be barely visible. After all this you need to dress the repair up and re-stain and refinish the affected area to hide the work. After that dries, you can fill the hole with resin and use a tight fitting dowel to push the resin into the crack like a hydraulic push rod. If you manage to drill down to just the right length and angle without busting all the way through the stock, it needs to then be filled with denatured alcohol and washed out to remove any oil (if present, most "new" guns have nice clean wood). The crack must be clamped when you are doing this or else the wood shavings get pushed in between the break and then you are not able to clamp the stock shut anymore, making for an ugly seam. Most of the time you need to drill down into the crack going as parallel as possible with the seam of the break. Depending on the severity of the crack, just spreading it onto the seam and hoping it works it's way in almost never works unless you can flex it open to around 1/8 of an inch and can keep flexing it to work the resin down into the seam. The stuff I use has a consistency of hot maple syrup, it flows very well. Toes, combes, duffle cut forends, wrist repairs, side cracks, tang cracks, nose repairs, dutchmans and complete re-graph jobs of missing pieces. Complete refinishes, pure tung oil finishes, high gloss tru oil finishes, BLO, air brushed shellac, Some brand new guns, some 160 years old. I've done it all, stocks broke in 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 pieces or more. The wax keeps it from permanantly adhering to the wood. For things like handguards and buttstock toes I use wax coated cord to hog tie a repair shut until it dries.
For real small pieces and dutchman repairs I use blue painters tape which is more than sufficient at providing enough clamping force on the piece drying. The clamps are padded using blocks of wood that are sometimes made on a case by case bases due to the odd clamping angle sometimes on different items. Course I work on a lot of military rifles, so I am used to cleaning the living daylights from an area to remove all traces of oil before making a repair.įor clamping I use traditional wood clamps and little c clamps.
I have always used Devon 2 ton clear epoxy which is very similar to acraglas but has a 30 minute work window.
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